We were only able to make 3 or 5 more steps, and then stopped with a short breath while holding the pine tree. A far away in front, Marandus Sirait, the Kalpataru winner 2004 (national award for environment activist), while walking he talked a lot about the beautiful scenery on the top to encourage our spirit that had been oppressed with slope. Behind him, three young junior guides walked steadily. ”They are so strong,” I said in my mind. For Marandus and three junior guides, may be, it was their normal route. But for three of us, walked up through the ridge of hill covered by pine with 70 degree acclivity and slippery trek was very painful.
A call woke up us from dream. “Wake up! Morning has come…” It came from the front door of the small room in a simple house owned by him. He, Marandus Sirait, spoke with broken Batak dialect, and became our host and also as supervisor of Eden Park 100 in Toba Samosir. Half hearted, Putra, Wardi and I, from Inside Sumatera woke up and queue up to take a bath. We did not care the cool mountain water from in the cement container. We had to rush because today we were going to climb Manja Hill, one of the tops of Mount Sipangulubao in the territory of Eden Park 100, Sionggang Utara Village, District of Lumban Julu, Toba Samosir, North Sumatera.
Marandus who has received Kalpataru Award for environmental pioneer on project of Eden Park 100 at the foot of Mount Sipangulubao, willingly to accompany us for this climbing. He is the environmental activist with national scale and honored by worldwide environmental activist network. For many years, Marandus and his family on their own efforts have greened the foot of Mount Sipangulubao with useful plants.
After taking a bath, we were asked to walk together looking for breakfast and bought some logistic items for climbing. The simple shelter functioned as the base camp for Marandus cs is situated on the main road Parapat-Balige in the territory of model village of Aek Natolu. Mist began disappearing on the surface of road when we stepped out from the shelter to find the food stall. Local residents just began their activity. School children walked together one after another on the asphalt roadside, married women were busy to clean rice before boiling it, and the men enjoyed drinking black coffee in the open food stalls.
It was a special exciting to see the morning activity in Aek Natolu Village while drinking hot tea with sugar and eating ombus ombus (traditional cake of Batak Toba tribe) in one of the stalls. From the stall where we were having breakfast, Mount Sipangulubao looked very green on the asphalt roadside leading to Balige while on the opposite side is Lake Toba view. “Look at one of the terraced tops at the above there, that is the peak of Manja Hill,” Bang Marandaus said while his hand pointing at one of the peaks, a bit lower than the peak of Mount Sipangulubao.
Though it was lower than the main peak of the mountain, but its ridge contour was very steep that made us gulp down our saliva. You must know that we had to climb while our fatigue after the trip from Medan was not fully gone. After having breakfast and bought logistic item, we were leaving the shelter for Eden Park 100.
At 09.10 a.m, we arrived at Eden Park 100. There were 3 other persons going to join with us for climbing. The three persons were Mantun, Rico, and Uli. They were still in training session. “Two of them have never been to the peak of Manja Hill. I think it will be good for them to join us to learn the field. So, some other time they alone can bring the guest,” Bang Marandus said.
Eden Park 100
Observing Eden Park 100 and while doing preparation for climbing was an exciting moment. This park is 18 kilometers away from Parapat. Due to its smooth road condition, it takes only 15 minutes from Parapat by car. On the entrance of the left side road, the visitor will see the gate with plank name “Eden Park 100”.
For Marandus, conservation value not only in theory or paper seminar, but it was interpreted through useful creative work. The park with 40 hectares in size owned by his family was managed based on his capability and knowledge. The artistic blood he has as a music instructor helped him understand that geographical position of Tobasa as a catchment’s area must be maintained as water supply to many critical lands in surrounding area.
“Eden Park in heaven, was various fruit plants will remind Christian people of Adam and Eve story. Since the human being committed sin, then the beauty of Eden Park is only a dream. We planted more than 100 hundred various plants since the greenery project began in 1999 until it was officially opened in 2000. That is why I name it Eden Park 100,” he added.
Around the park, hundreds of plants species marked below with name of its planter. To help maintain it, the visitors pay a little for paint and pamphlet. Visitor is free to choose the baby plant. Since 29 December 2007, Marandus established a system called “Bank Pohon” (Tree Collection Bank). This system helps supply the seeds to Lake Toba territory in greenery effort and improving the people income. “Bank Pohon” is open to receive contribution in baby plants and they will nurse it free of charge in Eden Park 100. And Eden Park helps provide the baby plant free of charge for people.
Besides climbing package of Manja Hill and Peak of Sipangulubao (2,150 meters above sea level), this park also has Waterfall with 2 Levels, Waterfall Jantung Rimba (7 levels), and bat cave. The last two objects located deep in the jungle and takes 5 to 6 hours from post of Eden Park. These two locations are also the favorite place nature lover. The water fall with two levels is just 20 minutes from the post. Tarzan House built on top of trees is also a favorite spot for the visitor, because it is very near to the post. Other spot is nursery ground for various plants based on joint work between Eden Park 100 with PT Toba Pulp Lestari. The nursery ground is a little deep in the park, on the pathway to the jungle. Here, Marandus is trying to develop a variety of plant with occulation system. He succeeded to develop randleman tree (andaliman fruit used for cooking ingredient in typical Batak food like arsik), and tamarillo tree in bonsai size. The new spot in this little heaven is Toba Orchid Park or Conservation Project on Toba Endemic Orchid. This park is officially opened in 14 February 2009, functioned as collection place, identification, cultivation, and conservation of Toba endemic orchids. The project of orchid park is the joint venture between Eden Park 100 and Care Forum on Toba Orchid.
Going to the Top
After lunch and moving all equipment into our backpack, at 09.30 a.m, a team consisting of 6 persons began leaving the main post in Eden Park 100 for entering the jungle to Manja Hill. Passing through the nursery ground, footpath was rising in a circle around the hill above Eden Park 100. The noise from the car on the highway below us was barely heard, and the same time we became out of breath. About 09.45 a.m, our team arrived and took a short break in Post 1. The trek from here was easier than the earlier trek; the terrain was up and down and curvy in the density of forest. Humidity was increasing. Body temperature was still heating because we kept on moving. In one of the treks there was warning pamphlet for visitor to use the guide service if they want to go deeper in the jungle.
Vegetation all along the trip was dominated by pine, rattan, and a variety of species jungle plants. On the right side of road, there was water pipeline with a diameter of 4 cm to flow water from spring in Manja Hill to some villages in the foot of Mount Sipangulubao. “Formerly, the water flew through gutter which was made at the side of path. Because the gutter was always clogged by tree branch and leaves, in 2003 the pipeline was installed, so the people do not need to clean up the clogged gutter. This pipeline once was repaired in 2005,” Marandus explained. Undoubtedly, this water treatment is much better than PDAM Tirtanadi (State Owned Drinkable Water Supply); because here we were allowed to drink directly.
At 10.00 a.m, one more time, we took a rest at small crossroad in the jungle. If taking straight road as far as 9 kilometers, the visitor would arrive at Jantung Rimba Waterfall after the bat cave (approx. 4.5 km). The right trek goes Manja Hill and the peak Mount Sipangulubao.
The trip was continued. Slowly but surely, the trek was climbing through the density of pines until we arrived at the ridge of steep hill. The suffering began here. The ridge of mountain with 70 degree acclivity forced us to stop for taking a long breath. Moreover the trek was covered by wet pine leaves due to high intensity of rain in the last few days. Our face turned pale and some strange questions such as; “How long more?” or “Do we arrive soon?” we kept asking Marandus. He just smiled and answered it with patience, “Yes, we almost arrive”.
Though it was a short answer but it made us feel comfortable. At 11.15 a.m, we took a break under the last pine tree we met in the climbing trek. Vegetation began changing from high rise pine to the smaller tree species from highland area. A variety of Nepenthes were found in great quantity along the footpath. Panorama of Lake Toba could be seen a bit through the trees. Our spirit rose up again to see the beautiful view around it. Our stomach had been filled with fresh bread we brought from Medan. “Almost arrive at the top,” said Marandus while he was stepping to the top.
We were also in a hurry to follow him from behind. Slow and steady, at 12.30 p.m, we finally arrived at Manja Hill. The last step at the top was the final stage of climbing. Feeling of happiness, relieve, and thankful were expressed in face and gesture harmonized with our admiration to view the beautiful panorama below us. It was more beautiful than the words from Marandus alone. Ugh, Lake Toba always offered spectacular view from any angle. The blue water was shining among the remaining fog under the sun. On the right side, the hill and green valley dominated over the view. The view behind us was dark and covered by mystery of peak of Mount Sipangulubao.
Marandus said that it took about one and half hour to reach peak of Mount Sipangulubao from here. Because it was out of our planning and limited time, we decided to spend the remaining time on top of Manja Hill and enjoyed our lunch. Not long after, we finished our lunch, suddenly the rain came down. The beautiful view changed into the thick fog. We were rushing to take shelter under plastic and umbrella. Luckily, it did not take long and the rain stopped. The fog was gone.
The scenery looked much better than before, especially when the water vapor from the foliage of trees below were lifting like jungle fairies flew over to the cloud. Really it was an interesting and exotic view. The jungle birds sang in a low voice while the gibbon’s cry sang the strange tone that never learned in musical theory. Really, it was fantastic concert of nature. That afternoon, six of us with damp clothes sat on the top of Manja Hill. Motionless and not even a word while enjoying nature painting and nature song from God’s vapor.
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